Simon K. Barr travels due North in search of the largest land mammals in Iceland’s lava fields. Part 1 of 2.
As the crisp Icelandic air filled my lungs, I couldn’t help but marvel at the stark beauty of the volcanic and glacial landscape before me. It is easy to see why the island is nicknamed ‘land of fire and ice.’ The vast expanse of lava fields, punctuated by craggy mountains and hidden valleys, stretched as far as the eye could see.
It was day two of our reindeer hunt, and after 36 gruelling hours of scouring this unforgiving landscape, we had yet to find our quarry. Reindeer are notoriously tricky to find. But as any seasoned hunter knows, patience and perseverance are the cornerstones of success in the field. Our small hunting party consisted of myself, a fellow hunter Mark, our skilled guide Oli and some friends along for the adventure. Rabbi, a local salmon fishing outfitter for the infamous River Miðfjarðará and Neil another Brit. We had been traversing the rugged terrain on three Can Am six-wheel ATVs, our trusty steeds in this harsh environment. The vehicles had proven their worth, allowing us to cover vast distances in our search for the elusive reindeer herds that call this land home.
To hunt reindeer in Iceland you must enter a lottery for a tag. Hunters, both local and international, must submit their applications before the February deadline to enter the draw for a coveted tag. The Icelandic Environment Agency manages this process, allocating a limited number of permits based on scientific assessments of the reindeer population. For the 2024 season, the total quota was set at 800 reindeer, comprising 397 cows and 403 bulls, which is lower than previous years due to data limitations. Successful applicants are notified shortly after the draw, allowing them to plan their hunt for the upcoming season, which typically runs from July 15th to September 15th for bulls and August 1st to September 20th for cows. The lottery system ensures fair distribution of hunting opportunities while maintaining sustainable management of Iceland’s unique reindeer population.
You must hunt with a licenced local guide to make sure you comply with the area and conditions of your tag. Reindeer are not native to Iceland but were introduced by settlers from Norway and Lapland at the end of the 18th century. Folk law states they were reputedly a gift from the King of Norway as a source of protein to feed the population in the harsh landscape. During this challenging period, Iceland faced famine and natural disasters. The hardy locals attempted to become reindeer herders like the Sami in Lapland, but the adaptation proved too difficult, and reindeer went wild. With no natural predators, their population exploded by 1817, stripping pastures intended for sheep. As a result, reindeer were widely hunted, nearly to extinction, until hunting regulations were established in the mid-20th century. Today, Iceland is home to around 3,000 wild free ranging reindeer, all descendants from the original introduction. As the sun began its slow descent towards the horizon, casting long shadows across the volcanic landscape, Oli’s keen eyes spotted something in the distance. A mere pinprick on the horizon, barely discernible to the untrained eye, but unmistakable to our experienced guide. “Reindeer,” he announced, a hint of excitement creeping into his voice. “A large herd, perhaps 50 or 60 animals.” Our spirits soared at the news.
After two days of fruitless searching, we had finally located our quarry. But the real challenge was just beginning.
The herd was a good 5km away, across some of the most treacherous terrains I had ever encountered. We mounted our ATVs once more, embarking on what would prove to be a harrowing journey. The lava fields we had to cross were unlike anything I had experienced before. Jagged rocks jutted out at every angle, threatening to tear into our vehicles’ undersides with each passing meter. The ATVs groaned and protested as we navigated this lunar-like landscape, their suspensions working overtime to absorb the constant impacts.
Halfway through our approach, at a high vantage point, the inevitable struck. The unforgiving terrain had claimed its first victim – one of our ATVs. A particularly vicious rock had torn out the transmission and gaskets from the undercarriage, leaving our companion Rabbi and his pillion passenger Neil, stranded atop a desolate mountain peak. It was a stark reminder of the challenges we faced in this unforgiving and brutal wilderness. This is why you need to hunt in pairs. With Rabbi and Neil safely laid up and plans made for their later extraction, Mark, Oli, and I pressed on. We finally reached a point where we could begin our stalk on foot, leaving the remaining ATVs behind. The unseasonably warm weather had us shedding layers as we began our careful approach, using every bit of available cover to mask our presence.
KIT BOX
Blaser R8 Professional Success 6.5 Creedmoor rifle
Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor 129-grain SST Superformance